Roma

Last night, when I blew the fuse with my American hair dryer I did hear a bit of complaining, "Oh Dio Mio" (multiple times with the clapping of the hands and looking upwards to heaven) for a while as the woman at the desk had to find the person who had the keys, who knew where the fuse box was, who could communicate with me, follow me to my room so I could "show" him the damage, and confirm that I had blown the switch and, who could then reset it..... I do think the front desk lady (owner I suspect) was mad at me for a little bit, but this morning I earned her graces back when she took my hand and said I was hot and I replied, "sonno ragazza Italiana" and she really cracked up over this (translates to, "I am an Italian girl", that's why I'm hot!! get it???) So, the fuse switch was reset and I was back to a light filled room with no harm to the hotel, or the block, or the city!

Since I am on a time schedule tomorrow (Tuesday) with my flight to Sicily, I thought it wise to visit the Termini Stazione and today purchase my rail ticket to the airport as well as determine a direct walking route from my hotel to the stazione with my new, pretty, small, travel bag! It doesn't take much to realize that in some ways, rolling bags are worthless in Italy. Too many cobble-stones and not enough side walk, the need to j-walk... When I walk around without a piece of luggage, I'm completely unaware of how many times I'm on and off a sidewalk, walking on cobble-stones, dodging traffic, etc. So, finding my most direct route will save me time and energy.

When one has all the time in the world, the crowds at the Stazione are entertaining but when one is on a time schedule things turn more chaotic.

Time was spent today instead of tomorrow morning finding the right vendor for the train ticket to the airport which took about 35 minutes; then I needed to change money preferably at a bank rather than a change shop as the rate is so much better. This seems to be a new challenge and I think it's due to the advent of the ATM machine. Most travelers do not take money with them and simply use their debit card to obtain euros. I, of course, am different. With multiple stops and various directions, I finally came upon a bank that would change my dollars and sure enough the rate was superior to the change shops. Although, they "refused" one of my $100 bills because it was not a "new one"....I suspect if it did not stand out amongst the others and I gave all "old" bills at the same time, there would be no notice. Bottom line, I got my money changed and then proceeded to find the platform that I will go to tomorrow to catch the train to the airport....and it's the furthest one at the stazione. So, it will be necessary to leave enough time to walk from the hotel to the stazione and then walk to the platform but I have my ticket and I will be ready to go!

Nap or gelato....si, gelato!

It is my sincerest hope that I am walking enough to burn off the calories I am eating with my daily (almost) hit of gelato. My favorite combination to date is dark chocolate and pistachio. Mmmmm good. I've been known to declare that "I don't do sweets" -- I am forever never able to declare that again.

Now a nap! Ciao...

Bitter sweet departure from Ascoli and a familiar return to Roma

This morning (Sunday) I left Ascoli saying arrivedeci to good friends Daniela and Diane (my house-mates) and Guiliano, the proprietor of my morning cafe. It was bitter sweet; these people became quick friends in such a short time. Yet, I was ready to move on.

Yesterday (Saturday), Diane, Daniela and I spent the whole day & night together. There were special events in town as it was "Family Week" and so we had a few activities on our agenda. First, of course, was to visit my local cafe and have coffee and a chocolate croissant. Once Diane and Daniela joined me we were off to the Saturday weekly Mercado where we could mosey among the booths of the farmers and then saunter onward to shoes, clothing, etc.

Diane bought zucchini blossoms to fry up for dinner and Daniela bought her ration of peas for the week (some fresh eggs as well). Diane also knew of a cart that sold really good roasted port and so we found it and purchased some for lunch with our blossoms....is your mouth watering yet?

Oh, yes, we were also on a mission to find me an inexpensive black strapless bra! Yes, this was my new need. Remember in my last post I mentioned I bought two tops made in India, well they are both off-the-shoulder. Quite flattering, I might add. I did not intend to purchase the strapless bra in Italy but, here we were at a retail market and why not.

This mission was a bit comical because the booths that wold the bras were manned by men. So, Daniela was going around the market asking these men if they had any strapless bra's for me! All said NO, until we finally found one who said yes. He never did ask me my size, he just looked at my boobs, proceeded to look at his stock of sizes, found the size that he believed to be mine and handed me a black strapless bra. Now the trick was, how to try it on (there are no dressing rooms in these markets), so I did what any American tourist woman would do, I tried it on "over" my shirt (which was fitted enough so I could really tell if it fit or not). Well this man had a well-trained eye and was spot on. Bravo! and it was only $9.00!

With more walking and browsing around, we all made out way back to the flat where we prepared our lunch. Sooooo, good. This pork was heavenly (sorry for those vegetarians reading this blog), and Diane whipped up a egg batter and deep fried the blossom, I made a mixed salad and one could not want for more. We had some red wine as well.

Nap time!

Before heading out again later, it was my big day to pack the gorilla. I was dreading it. I first started by laying everything on the bed. At one point Daniela came in thinking she was still back at the Mercato! Slowly and gently I placed all my belongings back in the suitcase so I was completely packed by the time we went back out again.

***Getting to the bus station to catch my bus to Rome was a preoccupation for a while until I worked out all the details. Diane was going on a hike at 8:45am, I had a taxi come at 9:00am and so Diane, Daniela and I carried all my belongs down 4 fights of stairs around 8:30am and then went to our cafe to wait for the taxi. Had I not had the gorilla, walking to the bus station would have been the option as it is literally 5 minutes away. But, I just couldn't do it so I contribute to the Ascoli economy by paying a taxi driver to drive me 5 minutes down the street.***

Around 5pm, we made our way to Piaza Popula as my language teacher, MariLena was partaking in a childrens play in the courtyard and I wanted to be there to support her. The weather began to get pretty dreary but we stood outside while MariLena and her troupe of actor friends put on an outdoor performance for the children in the community. She was so happy to see me there and I got to meet her fiance. We left after about 20 minutes as it started to rain (again) and headed for a cafe. We all wanted ice cream now.

So after walking around a bit and "bumping" into Georgio (Daniela's kinda boyfriend) and dodging the drops, we all went into a cafe and indulged in ice cream and pastries. Delicious. I had profiteroles.

Our next activity would not be until later so once the rain let up we strolled more and then made our way back to the flat but first had to purchase a bag of the meat-stuffed fried olives which is a trademark of Ascoli...mmmmmm. The plan was to bring them home for a snack later before heading back out at 9pm. My appetite was strange yesterday and so my olives could not wait as I ate them on our walk home..oh well.

Daniela went out with some friends while Diane and I hang out. At 9pm, we went back out to one of the beautiful churches where a German youth orchestra was performing. Great acoustics, smiling Germans and generally a lovely evening. Diane knew some people in the audience and it reminded me again how I wish our time had overlapped more. She is so in tuned with this community, I would have enjoyed my time more I think. Oh well, this is the way my experience was to be.

By the time we left the Church around 11:00pm, it was clear sky, warm and balmy and a beautiful evening in Ascoli.

So upon waking up this morning I was grateful to leave my friends on a sunny, warm day.

My bus arrived on time and made it's 3 hour drive through the hills and valleys between Ascoli and Rome. I had already booked my hotel which was only 2 blocks from the bus station and just few more from the train station. I'm using Rome as my headquarters for planning....

So, the Hotel Katty was easy to find and is clean and simple. Checked in and grabbed my map so I would get to know my bearings and began to walk. After some lunch of lasagna and veal parmesan, I decided a good destination would be the Spanish steps. And so I walked for about 4 hours while also searching for a street vendor where I might purchase an inexpensive smaller travel bag. My plan is to leave the gorilla stored at the hotel in Rome and use this smaller bag for Sicily and Bologna. Also, it will save me money when I return to the states as I won't get hit with that whopping $200.00 for an overweight bag....I'm still pissed off at that.

Sure enough, my walk brought me to where many street vendors were and I began to get a taste for what type of bags were available, size, cost, etc. The further I walked, the less expensive the same bag became. By the end of my 4 hour walk, I had decided on a style, size and cost and made my choice. Returned myself and my new small travel bag to Hotel Katty, picked up a few bottles of water and decided it was time to shower.

Plan to have a quiet night in Rome, will be easy as I blew a fuse with my American hair dryer and I'm presently in the dark....wonder if the entire hotel is?

Michael, didn't I do this last time we were in Rome????

Stay tuned....

Happily pensive in Ascoli (Friday)

My days are winding down in Ascoli and I do feel some sadness as this little troupe of people around me have all become valued friends. How sweet to witness the unfolding of stranger to comrade. At this writing, I have to say that Ascoli provided me with a safe haven to rest and surround myself with good-hearted souls. This is not something to take lightly. When back in Italy again, I could so see myself returning to Ascoli if only to visit Daniela, MariLena, Giorgio, Diane(when she's here). They each have contributed to making my time here memorable and heartfelt.

With that said, the place is a bit provincial for me. I can appreciate the old-fashioned way and find it curious but I can't relate. There is something sad about the woman here that I need to ponder more before I attempt to write as I think I have quite a strong opinion. Sorry to leave you hanging with this one, but my thoughts need more time to percolate.

MariLena and I had our last language class today and I was done being in a classroom and so we met and immediately walked to a cafe for our last 2 hours of lessons. Again, she and I walked arm and arm, chatting away in all kinds of language. She gave me an Italo Calvino book in Italian yesterday because surely after two weeks of Italian language, I can read this!!! (barely can understand Calvino in English, but what the heck) and so today I gave her some gifts as well. I gave her the book called "La Bella Lingua" as it is written by a woman who loves the Italian language and she's done much research with where words and expressions come from. It's really well written and fascinating. She brings to the reader's attention how many Italian words are pure metaphor which is so creative. It's really helpful when you're a student of the language. I am going to re-purchase it(as well as the English version of my Italo Calvino book....I'll need to cheat like in a crossword puzzle when I'm trying to translate). I also gave MariLena, "Eat, Pray, Love" and the DVD "Under the Tuscan Sun" and so she will have some fun English challenges. She intends to continue to send me practices via email as well as videos and links to Italian "tele-fiction" that are meant to help students of Italian. Once we wrapped up our lesson, Bouncy Ragazza and Dulce Ragazza made their way back to the school to part as teacher/student but not as friends. I believe we'll see each other tomorrow (Saturday) as she is part of a play performance that will take place. I'll keep you posted and, ideally, not forget my camera!

A celebratory Chinese food lunch today with Daniela, Giorgio and I. I was a bit nervous about this choice as I haven't always had good Chinese food in Italy, but what the heck! It was what they wanted. Georgio is a very enthusiastic man and enjoys speaking his Italian language (you might remember, he picked me up at the bus station and took me on a tour until I finally almost fell asleep in his car!). Therefore, it was a lively conversation in Italian about meditation, the Power of Now, the book about how water molecules change with positive and negative feelings. Georgio did most of the talking (he doesn't speak any English) but it was still fun!

Paralleling these gentle emotions is, of course, the excitement about the trip to Sicily. But, it is time to move from contentment to excitement, don't you think?

One way that I am moving in this direction is by purchasing a couple of really sexy tops. Don't ask me why, but this is the 2nd time that I've been in Italy and I have purchased clothing from India...what's with that? Yes, I bought two "off the shoulder" tops that I think are just lovely and so they will be packed in my Sicily bag!

Laura Calia emailed me today that they will pick me up at the Palermo airport and for me to not worry about anything.

Haven't made any other plans beyond this.

Also, happy to be in Rome for 1.5 days; I find this great city quite civilized and seem to relate more to it than smaller cities.


So, that's it for today..hope we have good weather tomorrow for my last day and for all the Fiesta's that seem to be promised...you never really know!

Under the Ascoli and Offida Sun!

Hey all, sorry but the previous day's blog did not post on time, so if you really want to be "on top" of it all, you need to read, "I've Arrived" before reading this one!

Today (Wednesday), in it’s entirety, was a lovely day. It started with an early rise and out the door by 9am (my lesson starts at 11:00am) as I was anxious to get to the market. Every Wednesday there is a farmer’s market and a retail market. Today, I had my sights set on a very blue leather purse that I had seen last week but hesitated to purchase. There was a little voice on my shoulder SHOUTING, “why do you need another purse!!!”....fortunately, during the week, that voice was replaced with a more tender voice suggesting, “you’re in Italy, buy the blue purse as you’ll regret it; I just know you will…you would never buy a blue purse at home!here's your chance”. So, today, in honor of the tender voice, my mission was to find the “purse stall” (among many, many stalls) with the hope that the blue purse was still findable amongst the thousands displayed. I knew I was in trouble when the saleswoman (who, by the way, was really beautiful) immediately recognized me from last week (see, it’s not hard to remember the only single, female, flat-wearing shoed American in this town). She reminded me of the “good price” and then gave me space to roam. I spotted the blue purse and immediately my passion was re-ignited. I had to own it. It was marked as 29 euros and I bought it for 20 euros. I’ll be curious at how often I have the balls to wear this purse as it is really, really, really, really blue!


Now that my mission was successful, I still had a good hour before my lesson and so I bounced off to a new café for a coffee. I chose one in the main piaza and settled in quite well, scanning the local newspaper as if I was actually reading and absorbing the news. Sometimes I could get the gist of the article but mostly not.


A little backtracking here – My buddy, Gina (HI!) sends me my horoscope each week and this week was a fun one. It was about pen names and how I should come up with my own alias. I liked this idea and so upon departing the market with my really, really, really, really blue bag in tote, I found that my walk had a new bounce to it and so I decided that today’s alias was Bouncy Ragazza!

Another sunny and warm day in Ascoli and MariLena and I had planned to go to the little hillside town of Offida after our lesson. I was excited about this excursion. As I’ve said many times (and will repeat myself so forgive me), MariLena is a delight and we are buddies. I have to say, she’s my favorite person in Ascoli right now.

We had our 2 hour lesson and then made our way to the bus station walking arm and arm like we had grown up together. I've decided Dulce is her alias. With tickets in hand and a crowd of teenagers waiting as well, we board a comfortable, air conditioned bus and relax while someone does the driving. MariLena has a car but she decided to not drive so she could also relax and enjoy the scenery (and be kind to the environment). We knew all along that we would be arriving in this small town during the “rest period” and so our expectations were to merely walk, site see, enjoy, chat and have lunch for a few hours in a new place.

The tour books do not lie when they exclaim how beautiful the hillside towns are in this region. They are picture perfect just as they are in Tuscany without the tourists and tour buses.

Upon arriving, we first confirmed the time of the return bus and where we should wait (she’s just like me), now we were free to roam. This hillside town probably has a population of about 5,000 inhabitants; it is lovely and immaculate. I just love the architecture of the residences. They are always built of either the white local stone or brick, always colored shutters and this area (including Ascoli) are displaying tons and tons of flowers and humongous palm trees. It’s surprisingly tropical here.

We walk and walk and talk and talk both Italian and English. After a while, we find a café and sit down to lunch. A delicious sandwich of prosciutto crudo, soft cheese and greens is so very satisfying with a nice green salad.

We are about 15 minutes early for our return bus and find a park with a clear view of the bus stop so we can watch for it. From our vantage point, we actually see a bus parked and assumed it was ours. After just a few minutes, we decide to simply go and wait at the bus stop; we see a couple of policemen talking and as we are looking around for the bus driver, one of the policemen prompts MariLena and she is told by him that the bus to Ascoli had already come and gone. This was very distressing news as the next bus was not for another 4 hours and we would not get back to Ascoli until around 9pm…..MariLena seemed more distressed over the question of how could we have missed it, we were sitting and looking right at the bus stop the whole time. She kept repeating how we both have a set of eyes and we could not have missed seeing it! It was concluded that we were probably directed to the wrong bus stop. So, MariLena pulled out her cell phone and began to call everyone in her family: mother, father, brother, brother’s friend, boy friend and finally we get the good news that MariLena’s boyfriend’s father (who is retired) would come pick us up! As lovely as Offida is, there simply was not 4 more hours of anything to do there.

While waiting, a gentleman approached us who heard my American accent and proceeded to join us in conversation. He was a British writer whose girlfriend (who was a painter) was from this area and they came here often to visit family. A bit of trivia he shared – the tailor for Frank Sinatra lived in this town! Too bad we didn’t run into him!

The “future father-in-law” arrives (only waited about 20 minutes entertained by the British writer) and we proceed to have a lovely drive back to Ascoli which was only about another 25 minutes.

It was a lovely time.

Tonight, my housemates and I were having dinner together. Diane is now here in Ascoli for her annual 2 month annual visit. She is a Professor at a small college in Maine and her personal passion is Medieval History. She is working on a 5,000 line translation of an old Italian document. She’s been coming here for 6-7 years. We hit it off and it's a joy to have a new personality in my little circle.

I prepare a salad and Daniela has purchased some home-made thin pasta and she fries up prosciutto and season with just some lemon rind, parsley and parmesano cheese, creates such a simple yet outstanding dish. Wonderful meal.

Once dinner is over, dishes washed, table clean, it’s about 9pm and we’re all happy to be home tonight. I offer up a movie…set up my laptop, pull the couch close as we all find our comfort and start to view, “Under the Tuscan Sun”….Diane had never seen it and Daniela was happy to practice her English.

It was a lovely way to end such a lovely day!

I've arrived! -

Well, today made it official, I've arrived in Ascoli! The local crazy man saw me twice today and greeted me both times....I am now a local! It's that easy!

Meanwhile, the weather has finally turned warm and today is the first day I am not dressed in multi-layers and do not need a bath to warm my bones. Simple t-shirt covered in very dark chocolate ice cream which I drooled onto myself with great pride! I'm telling you, this stuff is dangerous. My two favorite flavors are "dark" chocolate (I mean really, really dark) and pistacio (like you've never had pistacio before!).

Not much to talk about today; it's a pretty relaxing day. After my lesson, I went for my usual pre-lunch walk and then decided to sit at an outdoor cafe and feast on grilled fish (shrimp and calamari) kabob and salad. Had a nice cup of coffee, soaked in the sun, reviewed some Italian and generally relaxed. It's a tough life!

Then I went for my after-lunch walk with no focus or mission except to eventually turn up at the bank.

Plans for my departure from Ascoli have changed just a bit. It turns out Rome was basically "booked" for this Saturday (at least at the places I could afford) and so I'm staying in Ascoli one more day (maybe head to Grottomare and rent an umbrella for the day--not a bad idea, ha?) and will depart for Rome on Sunday. Have secured a reasonably priced hotel (recommended by Dante (Daniela's brother) walking distance from the bus and train station. I'll stay in Rome Sunday and Monday searching for a small/medium sized suitcase that I can travel better with. This hotel will keep the "gorilla" in storage until I get back from Sicily. So, the plan right now is that I fly to Sicily on Tuesday and return to Rome on Saturday (or sooner or later).

I still have to book my flight. Interesting discovery today when I went to the Italian Al Italia site, my round trip flight was only 93 euros ($114); then for the heck of it, I went to the Al Italia US site and the same flight was $283.00! What a difference!

Meanwhile the dollar has really gained some strength since I first started pricing this trip. Originally, the 2 weeks of private Italian would have cost me $522.22; I just paid up and it was $496.00 - hey, that's a difference of at least 3-4 plates of spaghetti! So, this makes me happy.

Tomorrow, MariLena and I enjoy a day in the town of Offida! I'll take photos.

May write later, but this is all I have for now.

Saturday, Sunday, Monday catchup!

Saturday: Una dia a’l mercato

Last night Daniela’s brother, Dante and his friend came to Ascoli as they are attending a wedding this weekend. As I mentioned yesterday, Dante was quite excited to talk English with an American. This also gave my brain a break as well.

We all met in the Piazza Popolo and headed to the “best pizza restaurant in Ascoli”; a restaurant named Bella Napoli. The place filled up quickly with locals as we each ordered our own pizza and salads combined with a carafe of beer, we were all quite content. Dante is a smart, young (I think 27) student of “green” economics studying in Urbano. Our conversation was vast which we both appreciated. We talked “green politics”, the gender economics of Italy, marriage, while comparing to how things are in the U.S. He was surprised at my sense of Ascoli having so many young people while he sees mostly the older generation. Different eyes see different things. He studied in Sweden for a semester where he learned his English, which was quit good. He loves Northern Europe because they are more progressive than Italy. We talked about GMOs and I relayed my perception that they were illegal in italy and he said they just passed a law allowing GMO corn. I thought to myself, well, this battle has really been lost if Italy is succumbing to GMOs. How sad.

With dinner over, we walked to the piazza, which was quite busy and the evening was comfortably balmy. The evening light with a sliver of moon made for a dreamy setting while fountains splashed in the background. A very lovely scene.

This morning (Saturday) Daniela and I both slept until about 9:30am and dressed quickly so we could get to the vegetable market. These are the local farmers who come to sell the local produce. It’s not a huge market as many farms are dying out since the young generation do not want to work the farms any more. These are hard working people. You can see it in their tanned leathery skin and their swollen fingers that they have been doing this a long time.

Daniela has her favorites. We met the woman who sells her the ricotta, then move on to the woman who sells her the eggs and peas. Daniela loves peas! Took just a few photos, as this seemed too intimate of a setting to intrude with my camera.

From there, we walked through another market where an abundance of purses and clothes were displayed. I had a moment of temptation but I kept thinking of my “gorilla’ of a suitcase and thought, “No, I don’t need any more purses or clothing!”.

Some items we were looking for were not there and so we headed to the grocery store of Francisco where I usually buy my tomatoes. Did I mention that Francisco thinks I’m 40 years old….I’ve gained 15 years of life being here! On the way to Francisco’s, we pass the rotisserie of chickens and lo’ and behold, I get to buy my roasted chicken! Daniel exclaims that today is a day of miracles! Too funny.

Further shopping brings me to purchase local honey and the best store for me to be introduced to is where home-made pasta is purchased. Daniela bought the ingredients for cannelloni with ricotta and spinach and so we will eat quite well this week. I saw some tagliatelli and sautéed mushrooms that I just may buy next week.

More later; I need to take a nap!


Sunday: Finalamente Il Sol!

Have I mentioned that since my arrival (today is day 8) it has been cloudy, rainy and cold? I really do think you all should applaud me for not whining over this as you know that I am a much happier creature in a warm, sunny climate. That’s actually why I chose Ascoli (as opposed to say Bologna) as it was south and I thought for sure in mid-late May, it would be warm. WRONG. It has been unseasonably cold, overcast and rainy and even the locals are confused about it. I also have to say that I’ve been a bit sick due to the weather as well; remember my walk from the Rome train station to the bus station? Rain, puddles, no umbrella, no sleep, completely unprepared. It’s taken almost a week to figure out how to dress and stay warm on a daily basis. Thank goodness there is plenty of hot water and a nice tub (narrow but nice). It’s been my saving grace.

But today was sunny and it made quite the difference. It was a great walking day and a perfect spectator day. My morning typically starts with me going just around the corner from our flat to Café Angelina (thanks again to Valerie!!) where I spend my morning. I alternate between the plain croissant and the chocolate croissant; as well as waiver between the Americano coffee and the cappuccino in a glass. Guiliani and his wife are quite lovely and welcoming. Neither speak a word of English and so the extent of my communication is, “Buon giorno, come’ stai? (good morning, how are you) and so it goes….

I do try to read some of the newspaper as well. It’s easier to read than to speak especially since so much of the language is like Spanish. Today in the paper it showed a horrific photo of a bull-fighter in Spain who within moments of entering the ring was gorged by the bull right up through his chin and out! The photographer actually caught this photo and there was no blood as I believe the photo was within the instant of the penetration. What a horrific experience and what a way to start my day! (and yours)….it only goes to show you, you never really know how you’re day will go!

Moving on….

I walked and walked and walked and stumbled across a couple of museums and enjoyed a slow stroll while taking in these works of art…one museum was modern and the other were of ceramics. All quite lovely. Walked further wanting to find the really old section where many of the residences are built behind a pre-roman stone wall facing the river. It really is beautiful with the Sibillini Mountains in the background still covered with snow. I did buy a book on these mountains as they are surrounded by stories of myths and mysteries and I’m intrigued.

Heading back to the piazza, I decide to sit outside one of the café’s for another cappuccino (normally I do not have 2 of these a day! But it’s sunny and I’m in Italy). My stomach started to rumble and my back was tired from my backpack and camera and so after sitting for quite some time, I headed home to make some lunch. I don’t eat out much – I’m saving that for when I leave Ascoli. It’s quite economical for me here in Ascoli and I want to take advantage of that since once I leave I’ll be traveling more and possibly changing locations which equates to expensive hotel rooms, flights, trains and restaurants. Want to stretch my budget as much as possible. It would really be something if I came home with ‘change’!

Two sliced tomatoes and a zucchini frittata later, it’s time to nap. Man I sleep a lot. Last night in my thoughts, I couldn’t help but think that this first week in Ascoli (and possible the next???) is really a recuperative time for me. Certainly the weather and a slight cold hasn’t helped but I am just so tired I have to think my body is taking care of itself after these last trying months. There’s no depression but just complete exhaustion and 8 days later, it can’t still be jet lag, do you think?

My thoughts also went to how perfect a place Ascoli is for this recuperation. I’m isolated enough, no one has any expectations of me, I have nothing on my mind from my Santa Fe life, my schedule is simple and everyone in Italy takes naps! It’s perfect. There’s no judgement .

Have I mentioned how much I’m chatting with my parents at night? (They’re both deceased by the way). I guess it is natural as I am with “their people”. It’s been an incredible comfort to have them to talk to (do I sound crazy?). I’m really the only one doing the talking and also asking them for support and guidance. It feels comforting and reassuring.

Oh, yeah, yesterday I decided to call the Calias’ in Sicily. I got a robust gentleman on the phone and after I said my usual, “Mi dispiace, parlo poco Italiana” (I’m sorry, I only speak a little Italian), he broke out and started to speak English. When I told him who I was, he was excited and well aware of my arrival. I don’t know if he is Laura Calia’s father or not but he was quite proud of her. He said she is either the best teacher of English at the University or she is the best student of English at the University. Can’t recall. Bottom line, they are expecting me and I am thrilled! First, this Baglio (which translates to fortified compound) is located right on the sea and I have to think it will be warmer there! Meanwhile, there is this great little island that I must visit (if the ferry is running) as well as a jaunt up to Marsala (Donna, I promise to try to bring some small bottle of the local Marsala wine home with me!).

Did I say how excited I am?

I leave Ascoli next Saturday and have booked a room in Rome for Saturday and Sunday night. I have to purchase a smaller suitcase so I can transfer enough clothes without having the “gorilla” with me. The hotel will store my suitcase while I’m gone. Meanwhile, I will look at flights tomorrow and book one for Monday. The gentleman said once I knew my flight, to let him know and he will have a bus or taxi pick me up at the Palermo airport.

Did I say how excited I am?

I’ll book my flight to arrive Monday and depart Friday and we’ll see how it goes; I could stay longer or I could leave earlier. When I return to Rome, my plan is actually to head north to Siena and then onto Bologna. There’s a real chance I will be rendezvousing with Shastro and Maria in Bologna for a Tango event!

Did I say how excited I am?

Ciao

Monday: Grottomare!

Woke up feeling myself today. Had a great sleep last night, still have a bit of a cold but otherwise quite energetic. Finally! So, I decided since I felt good and it was a sunny today, it was the day to visit the Adriatic Sea at the coastal town of Grottomare!

I emailed my teacher over the weekend and prepared her for a lesson on figuring out where the train station was and how I could go and return to the coast. As well, I invited her to a day at Offida (maybe Wednesday) my treat as she is really a lovely, young lady.

In the end, the train station was where I got picked up when I arrived by bus....but since Giogio took me all over Kingdom com' when I arrived, I had no clue where I was. It's funny to me that it's basically down the street (like everything in Ascoli.

With train schedule in hand and the language to insure I could get back, I pack my backpack and head out on my adventure. I have no clue how hot, warm, cool, cold it may be so I just dress in layers. My real goal is to eat pasta con vongole (clams or anything from the Sea for that matter).

The train ride was easy and lovely. I see why this region (Le Marche) is compared to Tuscany as the hillsides are identical with crumbling structures and colorful palaces. Unlike Tuscany though -- really, few, few tourists.

While riding the train I reaize no one is calling out the stops and I'm no positioned in a car that can actually see the posting of the station when it arrives. So, good lesson soon in this journey, I move up closer to the front of the train and now I can actually see what stop we are at.

I can tell we're getting closer to the sea because my hair is starting to curl up! Bravo! As soon as we begin to slow down I can see the Adriatic in between the narrow allies of residences with enormous palm trees and the sky is the bluest blue. I have arrived! I am so happy!

It's about 2:30 in the afternoon and as I begin to walk the shoreline, I realize food at most establishments will not be offered until 6-7pm. This is not good, but I just walk. I figure I should be able to charm someone into feeding a poor, hungry (female) Americana! The beach is clean with beautifully colored umbrellas and very white European tourists getting quite red before my eyes! I can hear many of them talk and I think many are from Germany. It's a relaxing beach area, not crowded and so I decide since I have plenty of time to find the city center and return to the beach later.

While walking around, mostly down the small streets and thinking about the people who live here, I come across a gentleman leaning in his doorway looking quite curiously at me (I do think I'm a curiosity -- there aren't many woman my age walking around alone in this region!) I say, "buon giorno" and he seems friendly enough and so I ask him if he can recommend a restaurant that will feed me and sure enough he gives me the name and I now have a mission.

Back on the beach I walk for what seems days and I come aross the restaurant which has it's doors open but it is empty. I am caught peering in and a waiter prompts me to come inside and then I begin my broken language. He falls his comrade over who speaks broken english an I am able to ask in broken Italian if they can feed me pasta con vongole and they are delighted! In fact, they make their own pasta on the premises and it is the best pasta con vongole in Grottomare. So, I go the high road and request a verde ensalada, agua naturalamente, and a bicchieri di vino bianco!

P.S. Bicchieri (which means "glass") was one of the first Italian words I had an intimate relationship with as it was my last name during my 1st marriage when I was 20! Took my maiden name back and never gave it up again!

I find my place at the railing where I have enough shade but am "on top" of the sand and looking out at the ocean. It's glorious.

My pasta arrives first (salad is last here for digestion -- makes sense, doesn't it) which looks divine, my wine, water, and bread are all sitting in front of me waiting for me to dive in (pardon the pun).

Then I make THE cardinal mistake and ask for "un poccotino di formaggio" (a little cheese) and I can literally feel my parents and their parents and their parents roll-over in their graves as one grows up knowing clearly with no dispute that you never, ever add cheese to a fish plate. Oh my, have I digressed. Even the waiter sweetly scolds me but then brings it to me followed by the cook who comes out and explains that you do not add cheese to this meal. Well, all I could say was "okey dokey"! No formaggio por me!!

I ate and drank with gusto expecting and welcoming a little ponch of a belly to grow before my eyes! and it did!

As lovely as this day was, I'm reaching that place where sharing these experiences with a friend or a lover is so much more satisfying. I'm not lonely though; just able to appreciate the value of companionship. In fact, really appreciating my friends and family.

I am so enjoying your little posts or your quick emails supporting me and sharing your love. I am so blessed. Now, I think about how I would love to come to Italy every year to study Italian and wouldn't it be great to do this with a friend!

This location has proved to be a good place for me to recuperate; however, it is not tapping into the passion in me that continues to hide a bit. Ascoli is a bit small, and a bit reserved.

I am excited to see how I "feel" in Sicily and, ideally, Siena and Bologna.

Thanks for reading this, I know it's long but the wireless cafe was closed yesterday and so I had no access to the blog!

Ciao

Ascoli gets it's first Sundae!

Presently sitting at Cafe Pretoriana with Lady Gaga in the background. I think this cafe caters to the young who have no hearing sensitivity (yet)! I'm determined to sit here and write my blog while trying to block out very loud pounding music....

Today is a simple day but good.

Yesterday, however, I delicately touched a valley of boredom and frustration. A good friend of mine recently emailed and reminded me just how difficult it is to learn a foreign language; he's Swiss and has first-hand experience. My mood went to impatience and frustration while projecting into the future of where I would go next as my "present" was not gratifying. Of course, the flip side, is that I learned a new expression...sonno annoiata (I am bored). A week of clouds, dampness and rain will do that to you. Sicily here I come!

But I caught myself just in time. I am "living here" more than "touring here". I have a schedule to keep, meals to cook and eat, homework to do, etc. So, just like everyday life, it can be boring (even in Italy!).

Also, I did not want to be projecting into the future. Life was good here in Ascoli and to prove it to myself, I decided to treat Daniela to dinner at the local Gelato negozio (shop). Italian gelato for dinner! Of course, I did it american style and introduced the word 'sundae' to the shop keepers. While pilling three scoops into a cup with chocolate syrup, whipped cream and nuts, the first 'sundae' was born in Ascoli. I know, it was a crime but believe me nothing could dampen the flavor and creaminess of this gelato...it was heaven.

Daniela and I then walked off some calories and I was introduced to a new part of town I had not found on my many walks. It is the old section with houses built behind a stone wall that pre-dates the Romans looking onto the river....stunning! The sky was clearing and the colors of the clouds against the travertine was breathtaking. How easy to pull me out of my boredom. We walked and talked and by 9:00pm we were both ready to head home.

Sometimes I just don't know where the time goes. The evenings seem to fly. Mind you, I have not watched TV or listened to music since I've been here. I enjoy reviewing my homework and reading the few books I brought. Tonight, I'm going to the local book store to purchase one on the Myths on the Sibiline Mountains..I had heard about this and I think it will be quite interesting. I promise to relay a story in the blog.

Daniela's brother is in town; normally at University in Urbino. He stopped by the school and when he heard an American, he asked if we could all have dinner tonight! I get to speak Engish! Yeah! So, we're heading to Daniela's favorite pizza place. Can't wait -- haven't had pizza yet since I arrived.

Since tomorrow is the weekend, Daniela has made it clear that there will be no "clocks" in the morning. We get up when we get up...however, it's market day and all the farmers come to the piazza and so I may get up early anyway and visit and shop while doing some photography.

Ideally, if the weather holds through to Sunday, I hope to take the train to the coast (Grottomare)....keep fingers crossed!

Caio for now!